Chanel couture makes a subdued ode to Parisian elegance in fall-winter collection

The cobblestoned banks of the Seine River served as the stage for Chanel’s latest haute couture collection. With the Eiffel Tower in the distance, the well-heeled glitterati of the fashion world navigated the uneven terrain for an outdoor collection that celebrated the soul of Paris.Mimicking the famed bouquinistes, those charming bookstalls lining the river’s edge, Chanel erected its own renditions. But upon closer examination, these weren't ordinary stalls. They were artfully curated homages to the brand’s legacy, showcasing biographies of the legendary Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and postcards of actresses associated with the house, such as Vanessa Paradis, a modern incarnation of the Parisienne, who applauded from the front row.

Here are some highlights of Tuesday’s fall couture collections, including when The Associated Press caught up with French actress Clémence Poésy.“This collection is the portrait of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne," said Virginie Viard, Chanel's creative director. "It’s like standing on a line between strength and delicacy.”Tuesday's assembly of tweeds, silk chiffons, organza and inlaid lace, in a myriad of floral and graphic motifs, was a testament to Viard’s vision of this rich and feminine universe.

Assured yet understated colors, flat-pleated golden tweed skirts, masculine-inspired overcoats, and delicately structured jackets all played into the subtle allure of the show. A standout piece was a dark blue asymmetrical coat-skirt with feathery tulle cascading from the lapel, fusing asymmetry with Chanel’s codes of rigor.Despite the sparkle and gleam of golden heels and buttons, the collection embraced a comforting simplicity.

French actress and “Harry Potter” alum Clémence Poésy was in attendance at Chanel, and it seems the allure of the Seine-side “bouquinistes” had her under a spell. The scene, recreated by the house, was a charming tribute to Paris’ iconic riverside bookshops, so beloved by locals and tourists alike.“There was a Parisian essence, being on the quayside of the Seine and having the bouquinistes in the beginning,” Poésy told the AP, her eyes alight with the magic of the show. “It felt like traveling through many eras of Parisians.”